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Body Analysis |
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 Short Slim Men
Short Heavy Men
Tall Men
Athletic Build
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| Short Slim Men |
| Jackets |
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Shoulder can be higher and slightly broader |
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Torso should broaden the chest and shoulders and have slight waist suppression. |
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Jacket length should be as short as possible; however, covering the buttocks without cutting the wearer in two. |
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Single breasted, three button coats promote a longer line. |
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Double-breasted coats should have a long roll and button below the natural waist. |
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Lapel notches should be in the chest's upper range. Peaked lapels offer more height. |
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Side vents or no vents. |
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Flap pockets add more width to the hip and balance better with the wider shoulder, but they are not as elongating as the simple besom pocket. |
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Fabrics such as mill-finished worsteds and flannels; with patterning that emphasizes verticality such as: herringbones, medium spaced chalk or pinstripes, and windowpanes longer in the woof (vertical) than the weft (horizontal). |
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| Trousers |
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A matching trouser lengthens more than a contrasting one. |
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Should be worn high on the waist and fuller on the hip to promote a longer leg line and to smooth the transition of the fuller trouser with the larger scale shoe. |
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Trouser should break on shoe to extend the view from top to bottom. |
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Cuffs (1 5/8") help to smooth the transition of the fuller trouser with the larger scale shoe. |
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| Accessories |
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Striped dress shirts with non-contrasting collars and cuffs |
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Spread collars, tab collars, long pointed pin collars |
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Suspenders emphasize verticality. |
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Striped, solid, understated neckwear knotted in four in hand style. |
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Longer four in hand necktie can be tucked into trouser. |
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Tonal handkerchief folded with points leaning outward. |
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Welted soled shoes add height and balance with the breadth of the shoulder. |
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| Short Heavy Men |
| Clothes should also elongate but work to deemphasize breadth. |
| Jackets |
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Straighter cut coat. |
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Two button single breasted better than three button or double breasted. |
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Besom pockets over flap |
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Side vents over no vents |
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Sleeves need to taper down to cuff, cannot be too wide at hand |
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Fabrics should be dark and smooth, such as fine worsted |
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Dark solids, medium-width stripping, and herringbones deemphasize bulk. |
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| Trousers |
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Reverse pleat on trousers keeps front flat while breaking the expanse of its width. |
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As long a rise a comfortable, fit on natural waist not below protruding stomach. |
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Cuffs assist the transition of the full cut trouser to the larger scaled shoe. |
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| Accessories |
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Long straight point collars. |
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solid ties; patterned ties; ties with stripes or prints with movement. |
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Welt-sole shoes for a more substantial platform; no lightweight, dainty footwear. |
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| Tall Men |
| The taller the tree, the broader its branches, so the tall man needs fuller cut clothes for balance and style. The selections should deemphasize length by breaking up vertical lines |
| Jackets |
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Sloping shoulders of generous width. |
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Coat should be cut on the longer side. |
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Double-breasted model that buttons on waist, not below it, such as the 6/2 placement |
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Two button single breasted |
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Broader lapels, finishing in lower area of upper chest. |
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Flap pockets and the additional ticket pocket help fragment verticality. |
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The fabrics can be heavier in look, such as flannels and cheviots, and of larger scale in pattern, as broad stripes, hounds tooth checks, glen plaids, or squared-off window panes. |
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| Trousers |
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Long rise, full cut with deep pleats. |
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Legs with gentle taper. |
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Cuffs (1 3/4) with definite break on shoe. |
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| Accessories |
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Full cut shirts must show 1/2" of shirt cuff |
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White contrast collars and cuffs break up length. |
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Amply proportioned spread collars. |
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Broadly spaced, fine-lined stripes, tattersall checks, windowpanes and horizontal stripes. |
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Belts break up length. |
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Welt soled shoes for more substantial foundation. |
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| Athletic Build |
| For the man of average height whose chest size is at least eight inches more than his waist size, the principle is to re-proportion the over sized shoulder with the smaller bottom. |
| Jackets |
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Shoulders should be as unpadded and natural looking as possible. |
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Jackets need length to balance the strong shoulder without shortening the leg line. |
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Minimal waist suppression. |
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Two button single breasted over double breasted avoid three button single breasted. |
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Lapels should be full with slight belly. |
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Flaps on pockets |
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Side vents or no vents |
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Fabrics should deemphasize bulk: solid worsteds herringbones, vertical windowpanes, subtle stripes with no less than 3/4" spacing |
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| Trousers |
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To fill out the jacket, trousers must be worn as high on the waist as comfortable. |
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Full cut through hip and thigh with taper to 1 3/4" cuff. |
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Trousers leg should have definite break on shoe. |
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| Accessories |
| Assuming a broad face and thick neck: |
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Vertical shirt collars such as tab or long points. |
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Solid, striped, or patterned neck wear. |
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Shirts with strong stripes. |
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Shoes with larger scale to balance shoulders. |
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